Improvement in the manufacture of boots and shoes



UNITED STATES PATW GILBERT HAWKES, OF'LYNN, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN THE MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 55,858, dated June 26,1866.

To all whom it may concern: l Be it known that I, GILBERT I-IAWKES, oLynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented anew and useful Improvement in the Method of Manufacturing Boots andShoes, of which the following is a full, clear, and exact description,reference being' had to the accompanying` drawings, forming a part ofthis specification, in

which- Figure l represents a view of the inner sole with the narrowstrip attached to it, and Fig. 2 a view ofthe same attached to the upperof a boot or shoe. Fig. 3 exhibits a different mode of stitching fromFig. 2.

This invention is designed to be applied more particularly to boots andshoes which are sewed by machinery; and the object ot' the invention isto render the sole of the finished boot or shoe more flexible and pliantthan t-hose at present made .by machinery, so as to adapt it to themotion of the foot and obtain for it the advantages of a handmade bootor shoe, and likewise to diminish the-expense and labor required in thepreparation of the inner sole for the use for which it is designed.

The invention consists ot' an inner sole made of a textile fabric whichmay be stiffened by the application of varnish or other analogoussubstance suitable for the purpose, in connectiou with a strip of clothor other material attached in any suitable manner to the central part ofthe under side of the said inner sole and extending from a point nearthe rear end or heel to Within a short distance from the front end ortoe o f the sole, the upper being attached to the said strip bystitching.

One ofthe objections to boots and shoes sewed by machinery consists inthe stiffness and want of pliability of the soles, rendering the stitchthat connects the inner with the outer sole liable to break, and alsocausing an uncomfortable feeling to the wearer.

These objections, itis believed, are obviated by my invention and a bootor shoe made to possessV the qualities that render th'ehaud-made shoe orboot preferable to those made by machinery.

The inner sole has heretofore been made of leather, or of what is termedleather-paper;77 and I am not aware that a textile material has everbeen used for the purpose of an inner sole.

Referring to the drawings, A represents an inner sole formed of atextile fabric, and it may be so closely woven as to answer the purposewithout the aid of any extraneous stiffening. It is my purpose, however,to apply to the surface of the said inner sole a coating of varnish orother suitable stiffening substance, for the purpose of increasing itsedi cien cy, and this substance may be water-proof, if desirable.

Extending along the4 center ofthe under side of the inner sole, A, is astrip, B, of cloth or any other suitable material, from a point near.the rear end or heel of the sole to within a short distance of thefront endor toe. This strip lmay be sewed or attached to the inner solein any suitable manner.

The inner sole, A, having the central strip, B, attached to it, istacked or otherwise fastened to the last, as usual; and C represents theupper, which is drawn over the edges of the last and secured to thestrip B by stitching all around, as shown in Figs. 2 and 3. The uppermay, however, be secured or stitched to the textile inner sole directly,withoutthe intervention of the strip B, if found desirable.

I am aware that a thin textile covering has been applied to the uppersurface of the insole of a boot or shoe. This I do not claim as any partof my invention; but,

Having thus described'my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is

I. An inner sole, A, formed of a textile fabric, to be used either withor without a stiffeuin g preparation, as set forth and described.

2. A strip, B, of a textile or any other suitable material, when used asand for the pun' pose specified.

3. The combination of an inner sole, A, formed of a textile material,with a strip, B, of any suitable material, as and for the purposespecified. y

4. The application to the lasting of boots and shoes sewed by machineryof an inner sole of textile material, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof Ihave signed my name to this specication in thepresen ce of two subscribing witnesses.

GILBERT HAWKES. Witnesses: i

J. H. ADAMS, G. A. C. SMITH.

